Producers

The truck driver who swept the Cup of Excellence

Mulugeta Muntasha hauled other people’s cherry before he built his own station. Then it processed four of Ethiopia’s top-ten coffees in a single year.
2 min read
Producers holding Cup of Excellence certificates, medals and trophies in Ethiopia

Before Mulugeta Muntasha processed a single lot, he drove other people's coffee.

He grew up in Bursa, a village in Sidama that, until recently, didn't grow coffee at all. As a young man he moved to the neighbouring Arsi region and drove trucks — hauling cherry from collection points to a private washing station. That's how he learned the business from the bottom up, eventually becoming a collector himself, supplying Ethiopia's central market.

Then the climate shifted. Coffee became viable in Bursa, and with support from the local agricultural office, planting spread. In 2021 Mulugeta went home and built his own drying station — Dawencho.

Red coffee cherries spread for drying at the Dawencho station in Arbegona, Sidama, Ethiopia Drying parchment coffee spread across raised beds at the Dawencho station in Arbegona, Ethiopia
Dawencho, built in 2021. Cherry on the left, parchment on the right — the same coffee, a fortnight apart.

That same year, it announced itself. Dawencho placed second in Ethiopia's Cup of Excellence with the farmer group, and sixth under Mulugeta's own name.

The year after, four of the competition's top ten lots were processed at his station — including the first-place coffee.

That first-place lot came from Legesse Botola, his brother-in-law. For a station barely a year old, in a region new to specialty, it was extraordinary.

Close-up of ripe red coffee cherries drying at Arbegona, Sidama, Ethiopia
Arbegona cherry. At 2,300–2,400 metres the fruit ripens slowly, which is most of why high-grown coffee tastes the way it does — more time on the tree means more sugar and acid laid down in the seed.

Why a name on a bag is rare here

Ethiopia makes this kind of traceability rare. Most coffee moves through a national auction where buyers can't even cup before they purchase, and where the trail back to a producer is usually lost. A single named producer with his own station and 600 neighbouring outgrowers — coffee you can point to a person for — is the exception, not the rule.

The lot, in variables
Station
Dawencho · Bursa, Arbegona, Sidama
Altitude
2,300–2,400 m — the highest-grown coffee we buy
Variety
74158, an Ethiopian landrace selection
Traceability
Mulugeta's own farm plus 600 outgrowers
Grade
G1 — Ethiopia's highest export grade
Process
Washed. No sealed tank, no extended ferment

Our Mulugeta Muntasha · Washed G1 is our “beyond” coffee — the one lot in the lineup with no sealed tank and no extended ferment. We're a house of controlled fermentation, and that's exactly why we carry it: control isn't one technique. A Grade 1 washed coffee, grown at 2,300–2,400 metres and processed by a station that swept the country's top table, is what discipline tastes like when there's nothing to hide behind. Apricot, honeysuckle, lime, raspberry. Clean.

The lot

Ethiopia Mulugeta Muntasha · Washed G1 — Arbegona, Sidama. Apricot, honeysuckle, lime, raspberry.